Day 2: Quick visit to Praia and Cidade Velha flight to São Filipe (01/12/2020)

Breakfast at Hotel Santa Maria (Praia)

It's time to get up and have breakfast! The hotel breakfast is complete and varied. Have a good breakfast, the day is going to be very long.

The hotel offers a storage service for backpacks and luggage in case you need it. In my case, this option has been fantastic for me to visit Praia and leave the room that same morning!

Visit Praia and personal tour guide in an impromptu way

I went out to know Praia without planning

I quickly go to the beach without having much idea of what it will be like, immediately a couple of people approach me offering themselves for a tour or guided visit, as you can see, in this country you do not go unnoticed as a tourist!

I kept walking without paying too much attention to these offers. Barely 100 meters further on, another Cape Verdean starts a conversation.

The first impression is different from those who have stopped me before, I am still a bit suspicious of the situation. The man asks where I am from. When telling him about Catalonia, the man is enthusiastic, how they like Barcelona! So we keep chatting and he asks me where I'm going.

I tell him that I am going to the beach, he immediately tells me that there is nothing nice or special about that beach, he tells me that since it is Sunday there is a market in a nearby street and that if I want to go he can accompany me. I ask him directly what he is doing there today, if he has nothing to do. He tells me that he is a tour guide and that he has a group scheduled for Monday, but that today he is celebrating and taking a walk. I imagine you are looking for a tourist.

Reaching an agreement with the guide.

I have liked him! So we sit on a bench, he takes me out a map and tells me to go visit Cidade Velha! As he explains, it is the most important thing in the area. Step to talk about price, we agreed on a price of € 40 for the excursion, transportation included. As a guarantee, I pay him half in advance and the other half at the end of the “guided tour”.

I explain that I have all morning, but at 2:00 p.m. I have to be at the airport, since I have to catch another plane to my next destination.

As he explains to me Cidade Velha there is half an hour by car from Praia, no problem, at 2:00 pm I'll be at the airport.

I continued walking with the guide and we approached a viewpoint, we can see a panoramic view of Praia. I am struck by the humble buildings and the many half-built buildings, it seems that the works have been abandoned.

We continue walking and go down some stairs to get fully into the traveling market that they do on Sundays, it is full of people and stalls of all kinds, there is an area that according to what he explains is the fixed fruit market, since it is Sunday it is closed. As we walk, he explains different local products that he finds at the stops.

First currency exchange

We crossed the entire market until we left it behind at the other end. Once outside the market, I ask him for a place to exchange money and he takes me to a small shop that looks like a parlor. The man at the counter shows rather uninterested, not towards me, if not in general, what a parsimony he shows. I ask him to make the € 50 change, he takes a calculator with all the calm in the world and shows me the amount of 5300cve, the official change that appears in google is 5500cve and the cashiers apply a commission of 200cve for withdrawing money, so It seems reasonable to me and I change € 100.

Visit to Cidade Velha and its surroundings.

I pay him half, as we agreed. When we leave the booth, a taxi is already waiting for us, it is a Dacia, the car is practically new and in very good condition. Nothing to do with the first taxi I took from the airport to the hotel in Praia. Once we get into the taxi, we head to Cidade Velha.

On the way the taxi driver tells me that he is also a tour guide and that he owes him a favor. As he tells me I will follow the route with him. Before this I oppose, in a very assertive way, I tell him that I have hired him and therefore I do not want to change the taxi driver. Furthermore, his partner does not speak English or Spanish. Without thinking twice the guide accepts (he will owe you the favor for another day). One thing is clear, these people are very savvy, since they make their living from tourism and are sometimes a bit opportunistic. They do not do it in bad faith, by talking with them you can reach a good agreement. To avoid problems, I will tell him again and make it clear that I want to visit him with him, as agreed in the beginning.

Visiting the Royal Fort of San Felipe

We come to a road junction, we turn right onto a very well paved path. A few meters later I observe the Royal Fort of San Felipe. We get out of the taxi and it leaves. My guide tells me that from the fort to the town there is a descent that is worth walking to be able to observe its views and that the path is not too long. I do the usual visit around and observe the valley from above. He tells me that I can visit the fortress from inside, but that he does not find it interesting, that taking into account that time is limited, he does not recommend visiting it.

Cidade Velha

We continue the visit along the dirt road until we reach Cidade Velha, a very tiny fishing village. As soon as I enter I can see the people in their streets, at the doors of their houses and I observe how my guide knows everyone. Then we come to the remains of Be Cathedral Ruins, there are hardly any ruins left. Still a curious site to take a look, but little else.

Then we go to a small viewpoint where I can see the cove with its colorful boats from above. What a beautiful little corner! I take a few photos and we continue the tour.

We go down to the cove and right next to it are all the restaurants. In one of them I look at the menu and I indicate the dishes I want to eat in a while, so when we arrive they will have it ready. In this way when he returns in about 1 hour we will not have to wait, so that he gives us time for everything.

Discovering the surroundings of Cidade Velha

We follow a path that runs through a dry river towards the interior, above some lateral margins that are at a certain height. As we walk, the guide shows me the different plantations in the area.

Later, he shows me a small house belonging to an acquaintance of his. The man invites me to come in and cuts a piece of sugar cane for me to chew. I am struck by the very small house where he lives, it is just a room, that is very clean and cozy. Outside he has a large field where his three children and several dogs play. On one side there is an outside area that they use as a dining room with a tent and a seating area. I am struck by how well arranged everything is, and how cozy the place is. Before we leave, I thank him for showing me his house and we continue the route.

We walk for a while and we arrive at a very cool inn but according to what the guide tells me is abandoned, a shame because as a rustic accommodation it is really beautiful, but who knows ... it should not be profitable!

We went out to the stream and headed back to town, but not before visiting a small grovo distillery! A small building, like a shack that is on the side of the stream. It has a small fire on the ground with a barrel on top, its tube goes down a raft of water to cool the drink and a small room where it keeps the carafes with this alcoholic drink so typical of Cape Verde.

We return to town and go to the restaurant that had ordered the dishes. Once there we were served our food quickly. Both the guide and I eat quietly, once we finish eating and with all the calm in the world (applying Cape Verdean no stress) we pay and leave.

Problem with the plane!

I run back for the backpacks

The non-stress from Cape Verde was short-lived. Just when I left the restaurant area, I received a WhatsApp from my friend Pako Crestas that said the following:

Carlos we have just arrived in Praia, they have advanced the flight:

COME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, THE FLIGHT LEAVES AT 13:55

I look at the clock: it is 1:21 pm. For a second I just stand there and think: this is a fucking joke! I tell the guide and the taxi driver and we run off. It just can not be! Has the flight been advanced by 2 hours without warning? I do not understand anything! Soon I get another call from Pako: Where are you? To which I answer that I am on my way to the airport, about 30 minutes. He informs me that he is arguing with the company and that I should hurry!

I have the backpack at the hotel, I have to pick it up and then go to the airport! The taxi driver understands my situation and leaves the slogan "Cape Verde country of no stress" aside and his driving becomes much more aggressive than usual, overtaking and whistling to overtake.

We did not find too much traffic and at 1:50 pm I arrive at the hotel to collect the backpack. I look at the clock and think: “¡I miss the plane!”From the hotel to the airport according to google maps there are 7 minutes. Pako had informed me that the flight leaves at 1:55 p.m.

I arrive at the hotel, collect my luggage and quickly pay the taxi driver with the missing half and without wasting a second they take me to the airport.

Arrival at the airport

I run into the airport, go for the boarding pass. The woman at the counter tells me that I have already checked in and that I cannot access. I quickly explain that the tickets are for a group, but that I have not checked in because I was previously on the island. For this reason, the rest of the group is waiting for me inside to take the plane and I have not checked in.

He checks it on the computer and effectively. He tells me that I have to check in the backpack, the plane is small and I cannot take it in the cabin. Once the backpack is checked in, they provide me with the boarding pass.

I head towards the security checkpoint and I see that I am not the only one in this situation. There is also an older couple of Germans who are like me. I pass the security checks as quickly as I can and I GOT IT !!! It's 1:55 p.m. and I haven't missed my flight, incredible!

I get on the plane and finally breathe easy. Who has had a flight ahead of him for a couple of hours without notifying anyone? Later I ask Pako and she tells me that they didn't know anything either, but since they were landing from another flight coming from Lisbon, the same company was waiting for them, making them pass the first to do the VISAS, I suppose they assumed that the whole group was there together, and it was not like that ... We could not clarify the reason for this change!

Chã das Caldeiras (São Filipe Island)

The flight is very short, I think I remember that about half an hour, then we landed in Sao Filipe. As soon as we leave the airport, our local guide awaits us and takes us to a restaurant in the same town to eat, since the rest of the group with the combination of flights has not been able to eat. It is quite late to eat with the schedules of the islands, but the restaurant has no problem preparing our meals.

Eating and talking about a thousand things Pako tells us that one of the flights between islands is not available and that instead of flying on the 15th, we have a flight on the 16th! Something that makes it impossible to dive in Santa Antao, because we extended our stay on the island of Fogo.

Entering the Pico du Fogo Natural Park

Once the group has finished eating, we get into a van / mini bus and head to the Pico du Fogo Natural Park.

We stopped at the entrance of the natural park, it is marked with a sign and the landscape and the ground suddenly turn black. As soon as we enter the park we can see the Pico do Fogo, we take some photos and we continue our route.

We arrived at the town of Chã das Caldeiras, a town that in 2014 was devastated by the eruption of the volcano.

We walk around the town and observe the many houses that are literally half buried in the lava tongue. Some are uninhabited for this reason, others nevertheless live people despite having half a house "flooded" by lava. Something really spectacular to see, as well as to appreciate the living conditions of this small population and the losses they had with the eruption.

Our accommodation in Chã das Caldeiras: Cicilio House

We stay at Cicilio House: It is run by a married couple, Cecilio and Helena. He is very joking and laughs all day, they are both very helpful. Also, the food they prepare is incredibly good. Without a doubt a fantastic site!

The accommodations are very new with photovoltaic energy, since there is no electricity in the area.

Also water is limited. It is rainwater, collected in tanks above the accommodation and therefore its use must be greatly rationalized, it does not have pressure or hot water, but it gives enough to shower after the ascent to the pico du fogo. We cannot forget the harsh conditions in which the entire population of Chã das Caldeiras lives.

We had dinner cachupa, a famous dish from these islands. The dish is a stew with various types of corn, two or three types of beans, and fish or meat.

Having dinner, the issue of flights between islands arises, it seems that the group share an opinion, staying 3 days on Fogo Island greatly limits the trip, since it is mainly a volcano, but to do more Trekkings we have to go to Santa Antao. Finally, we came to the decision to look to change the flight from the 16th to the 14th. If a ticket change could be made, we would do one less day than planned in Fogo and one more in Santa Antao.

After dinner to rest! Tomorrow the ascent to Pico du Fogo awaits us!